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In the mirror, I appear to be wearing huge shimmering pantaloons, visible just for my eyes. Children play in a stone basin imitating sea nymphs, while in the next room resides a chatting legume in a exhibition box, next to a tall stack of bedding. It represents the world of the beloved author (1805-1875), among the 1800s most beloved authors. I'm visiting this Danish town, on the island of Fyn in the southern region of this Nordic country, to investigate the author's timeless impact in his home town a century and a half after his death, and to experience a couple of fairytales of my own.

The Cultural Center: HC Andersens Hus

HC Andersens Hus is the town's museum honoring the writer, featuring his original residence. A curator states that in earlier iterations of the museum there was little focus on Andersen’s stories. The writer’s life was studied, but Thumbelina were nowhere to be found. For visitors who travel to this place seeking fairytale wonder, it was not quite enough.

The redevelopment of the city center, redirecting a main thoroughfare, made it possible to reimagine how the city’s most famous son could be honored. A major architecture competition gave the architects from Japan the renowned designers the commission, with the curators’ new approach at the heart of the layout. The distinctive wood-paneled museum with connected spiral spaces opened to great fanfare in 2021. “We’ve tried to build a place where we avoid discussing the writer, but we communicate similarly to him: with comedy, satire and outlook,” notes the expert. Even the gardens embrace this concept: “This is a landscape for wanderers and for large beings, it’s designed to make you feel small,” he says, a challenge accomplished by thoughtful gardening, experimenting with elevation, scale and many winding paths in a deceptively small space.

The Writer's Legacy

The author penned several memoirs and frequently provided conflicting accounts. The exhibition takes this approach fully; often the opinions of his friends or fragments of written messages are presented to politely doubt the his narrative of happenings. “Andersen is the guide, but he’s not reliable,” notes the expert. The result is a engaging swift exploration of Andersen’s life and creations, thought processes and most popular tales. It is thought-provoking and playful, for mature visitors and youngsters, with a bonus underground fantasy realm, Ville Vau, for the smallest guests.

Visiting the Town

Back in the actual city, the modest urban center of the municipality is delightful, with stone-paved roads and old wooden houses painted in cheerful shades. The writer's influence is all around: the traffic lights show the writer with his distinctive top hat, bronze footmarks offer a free guided stroll, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Annually in August this dedication culminates with the regular storytelling event, which honors the author’s legacy through visual arts, performance, drama and melodies.

During my visit, the week-long festival had 500 shows, the majority were free. During my time in this place, I come across artistic acrobats, spooky creatures and an author double narrating adventures. I hear empowering poetry and witness an amazing late-night performance with graceful performers coming down from the municipal structure and suspended from a construction equipment. Future activities in the coming months are talks, creative sessions for all ages and, expanding the storytelling legacy beyond Andersen, the city’s annual enchantment celebration.

All good magical places need a palace, and Fyn boasts numerous historic homes and estates throughout the region

Cycling and Exploration

Like other Danish regions, bikes are the best way to get about in Odense and a “bicycle route” curves through the urban core. Starting at the local hotel, I pedal to the complimentary port-side aquatic facility, then into the countryside for a route around Stige Island, a small island connected by causeway to the primary land. Local inhabitants have outdoor meals here in the evening, or enjoy a peaceful time angling, aquatic activities or swimming.

Back in the city, I eat at a local eatery, where the food selection is based on Andersen themes and narratives. The verse the patriotic piece appears at the restaurant, and owner the host recites passages, rendered in English, as he introduces the meal. It’s an experience repeated often in my visit, the island inhabitants love a yarn and it feels as though sharing tales is always on the menu here.

Castle Explorations

Every excellent fairytale destinations need a palace, and Fyn features numerous historic homes and stately homes around the area. Traveling briefly from town, I tour Egeskov Palace, Europe’s finely maintained historic fortress. Although large sections are open to visitors, the castle is also the private residence of Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and his wife, Princess Alexandra zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg. I ponder if she would notice a tiny vegetable through a pile of {mattresses